Grading your Pokemon cards can be exciting.
You send in a raw card. A few weeks (or months) later, you get back a slab with a number on it. That number could multiply your card's value by 5x, 10x, or even 20x.
Or it could come back lower than expected, and you're out $50+ in fees.
I've graded over 100 cards. Some came back as PSA 10s and sold for massive profits. Others came back as PSA 8s and I lost money after fees.
Here's everything I've learned about grading—the good, the bad, and the "why did I submit this?"
The Big Three: PSA vs. BGS vs. CGC
PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)
The Industry Standard
Pros:
- Most recognized and trusted
- Highest resale value
- Largest buyer pool
- Good for vintage and modern
- Slow turnaround (2-6 months for standard)
- Expensive ($25-100+ per card)
- Can lose cards (rare, but happens)
- Customer service is... not great
- More detailed grading (subgrades)
- BGS 10 commands premium over PSA 10
- Faster than PSA (sometimes)
- Good for modern cards
- Smaller market (harder to sell)
- Even stricter than PSA
- Expensive
- Less recognized for vintage
- Cheaper than PSA/BGS
- Faster turnaround
- Good for bulk submissions
- Growing recognition
- Lower resale premiums
- Some collectors don't trust them
- Not ideal for high-value cards
Cons:
When to use: Always, unless you have a specific reason not to. PSA is the liquidity king.
Cost: $25-50/card (standard), $100+ (express)
BGS (Beckett Grading Services)
The Strict One
Pros:
Cons:
When to use: Modern chase cards where you're confident in a 10.
Cost: $30-60/card
CGC (Certified Guaranty Company)
The Budget Option
Pros:
Cons:
When to use: Mid-value cards where PSA fees don't make sense.
Cost: $15-35/card
When Grading Is WORTH It ✅
1. Vintage Holos in Good Condition
Base Set Charizard, Blastoise, Venusaur
Even a PSA 7-8 is worth serious money. A PSA 10 is life-changing.
Example:
- Raw Base Set Charizard: $400-800
- PSA 8: $800-1,200
- PSA 9: $2,000-4,000
- PSA 10: $15,000-25,000+
- Raw Umbreon VMAX SAR: $350-450
- PSA 10: $1,200-1,800
- PSA 9: $400-550 (not worth the fees)
Verdict: Always grade vintage holos. Even low grades have value.
2. Modern SARs You Think Are 10s
Charizard ex, Umbreon VMAX, Mewtwo ex
PSA 10s can 5-10x your investment.
Example:
Verdict: Grade if you're confident it's a 10. A 9 often isn't worth it.
3. Low Population Cards
Cards with few high-grade submissions.
Check [PSA Population Report](https://www.psacard.com/pop) before submitting.
Verdict: If the gem rate is under 1% and you think yours is perfect? Submit.
4. Personal Grails
Your favorite card. The one you've been chasing for years.
Verdict: Grade it for sentimental value. ROI isn't everything.
When Grading Is NOT Worth It ❌
1. Bulk Holos and Reverse Holos
Your $10 reverse holo isn't going to sell for $200 in a PSA 10.
Math:
- Card value: $10
- Grading fees: $40-60
- Break-even sale price: $150+
Verdict: Don't do it.
2. Damaged Cards (Unless They're $10,000+)
Whitening, scratches, creases, bends?
Verdict: Keep them raw. A PSA 4-6 on a $30 card is a $50 paperweight.
Exception: $10,000+ cards where even a low grade has value.
3. Mass-Produced Commons
Your 500th copy of Pidgey?
Verdict: No. Just... no.
4. "I Think This Might Be a 10" Hopes
If you're not confident, don't submit.
Verdict: Be brutally honest. PSA 10s are rare. Like, genuinely rare.
My Grading Process (Step by Step)
Step 1: The Pile Sort
I make three piles:
Pile A: Definitely submit (no visible flaws, worth $100+)
Pile B: Maybe (minor flaws, worth $50-100)
Pile C: Absolutely not (bulk, damaged, or too valuable to risk)
Step 2: Brutal Inspection
10x magnification. Every corner. Every edge. The whole surface.
If I find ANY flaw? Card goes to Pile B or C.
Step 3: Start Small
First time? Send 3-5 cards. Not 50.
Learn the process. See how PSA grades your cards.
Step 4: Document Everything
Photo every card before shipping. Keep a spreadsheet.
PSA has lost my cards twice. Both times I had photos and got compensated.
What If You Get a Bad Grade?
Option 1: Accept It
Sometimes the grade is fair. PSA saw flaws you missed.
Sell as-is or hold long-term.
Option 2: Resubmit
If you genuinely think PSA messed up:
- Resubmit for regrade ($20-30)
- Include a note explaining why
- Know the risk: Grade can stay the same or go **down**
Option 3: Crack and Resell
Remove the card from the case and sell raw.
Warning: Can't get the original case back. Card is now "known" as previously graded.
The Bottom Line
Grading can be profitable if you:
- Pick the right cards
- Understand the true costs
- Have realistic expectations
- Play the long game
- [PSA Grading 101: Which Cards Are Worth Submitting?](/blogs/pokemon-tcg-insights/psa-grading-101-which-cards-are-actually-worth-submitting-from-someone-whos-been-burnt)
- [Pokemon Card Protection Guide](/blogs/pokemon-tcg-insights/the-complete-pokemon-card-protection-guide-2026-sleeves-holders-and-storage-that-actually-work)
- [How to Spot Fake Pokemon Cards](/blogs/pokemon-tcg-insights/how-to-spot-fake-pokemon-cards)
But it's not a get-rich-quick scheme. It's a strategic tool for serious collectors.
My advice: Start small. Be honest about condition. Check sold listings before submitting. And don't grade anything you can't afford to slab and hold for 5+ years.
[Shop PSA Grade Cases →](/collections/psa-grade-cases) — For when your slabs come back.
*Look, I've made every grading mistake in the book. Learn from my failures. Your wallet will thank you.*
Happy collecting. And may the grading gods be ever in your favor. 🦞
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